How Much to Feed a Dog by Weight NZ: Feeding Chart & Practical Guide

How much to feed an adult dog depends on body weight, the calorie density of the food, activity level, age, and whether the dog is desexed. The table below gives a rough daily dry-food range in grams for common weight brackets, but the number on your dog food bag is always a better starting point than any generic chart — because every formula packs a different number of calories per gram.

Dog feeding chart by weight (NZ)

This table is a starting-point reference for healthy adult dogs eating a standard dry food with moderate energy density (roughly 350–400 kcal per 100 g). If your food is higher or lower in calories, your dog's correct portion will differ.

Important: these ranges assume moderate activity and a mid-calorie kibble. A working farm dog running all day needs more than a retired greyhound napping on the couch — even at the same weight. Wet food, raw diets, and mixed feeding have different gram-to-calorie ratios, so the numbers above do not apply directly. Always check the feeding guide on your specific product.

The MSD Veterinary Manual notes that individual dogs can vary by as much as 50 % from predicted energy requirements, which is why body condition scoring matters far more than a fixed gram target.

Why weight alone is not enough

Body weight gives you a ballpark, but several other factors shift the correct portion up or down:

• Age. A one-year-old dog finishing growth may still need slightly more than a six-year-old at the same weight. Senior dogs often need fewer calories but higher-quality protein.
• Desexing. Neutered and spayed dogs typically need around 20–30 % fewer calories than intact dogs of the same size. If your dog was recently desexed, reduce portions gradually and monitor body condition.
• Activity level. A working heading dog covering 30 km a day on a Canterbury farm burns far more energy than an apartment dog with two short walks. Adjust seasonally — many NZ dogs are more active in summer.
• Pregnancy and lactation. A pregnant or nursing bitch needs significantly more food, especially in late gestation and peak lactation. Talk to your vet rather than guessing from a generic chart.
• Health conditions. Conditions such as hypothyroidism, diabetes, or joint disease can change energy needs. If your dog has a diagnosed condition, your vet may recommend a prescription or therapeutic diet with its own feeding guide.

If your dog is still a puppy, this chart does not apply — growing puppies have different energy and nutrient needs. See How Much to Feed a Puppy NZ for age-specific guidance.

Read your dog food's feeding guide

Two bags of kibble that look identical can have very different calorie densities. A high-protein, high-fat performance formula might pack 450 kcal per 100 g, while a light or senior formula might sit around 300 kcal per 100 g. That difference alone can shift the correct daily portion by 30–40 %.

When you pick up a new bag, look for:

• Energy (kcal or kJ per 100 g or per kg). This is the single most useful number on the label.
• The manufacturer's feeding table. It usually shows daily grams by weight range. Start there.
• "Complete and balanced" or similar claim. This means the food is designed to be the sole diet, not a topper or treat.

If you feed a mix of dry and wet food, do not simply add the full dry-food amount to the full wet-food amount — that is double feeding. Reduce each proportionally based on calories, or use the brand's mixed-feeding guide if it provides one. For help choosing a food, see Dog Food Guide NZ and Best Wet Dog Food NZ.

For owners exploring raw or home-prepared diets, the calorie maths are different again. See Raw Feeding Dogs NZ for more detail on that approach.

Body condition score: the real test

A feeding chart tells you where to start. Your dog's body tells you whether to adjust. The WSAVA body condition score (BCS) system, widely used by vets in NZ and around the world, rates dogs from 1 (emaciated) to 9 (obese). The ideal range is 4–5 out of 9.

Here is a quick at-home check:

• From above: you should see a visible waist behind the ribs.
• From the side: the belly should tuck upward from the ribcage toward the hind legs.
• By touch: you should feel ribs easily under a thin layer of fat, but not see them prominently on a relaxed standing dog.

If your dog scores 6 or above, reduce the daily portion by about 10 % and reassess in two to three weeks. If your dog scores 3 or below, increase food gradually and consult your vet — unexplained weight loss can signal an underlying health issue.

The WSAVA Global Nutrition Committee recommends that every wellness visit should include a body condition assessment and a nutritional history review. You can use the same BCS chart at home between vet visits to catch changes early.

Meals per day and NZ notes

Most adult dogs in NZ do well on two meals per day — morning and evening. Splitting the daily portion into two helps with digestion, keeps energy levels more stable, and gives you two daily check-ins on appetite.

Some owners of small or toy breeds prefer three smaller meals, which is fine as long as the daily total stays the same. For large or deep-chested breeds prone to bloat (such as German shepherds or Great Danes), some vets suggest avoiding one very large meal; splitting into two or three can reduce risk.

A few NZ-specific notes:

• Seasonal adjustment. Dogs that spend more time outdoors in a cold Southland winter may need slightly more food than during a mild Auckland summer. Watch body condition rather than changing grams by calendar alone.
• Working dogs. If you run a farm dog, hunting dog, or dog sport competitor, talk to your vet about a performance formula — standard maintenance food may not keep up with high daily energy output.
• Budgeting. Dog food is a significant ongoing cost. Comparing cost per day (not just bag price) helps you budget accurately. For a full breakdown, see Cost of Owning a Dog NZ.
• Weighing food. Kitchen scales in grams beat cups every time. Cups are inconsistent and easy to overfill, which adds up over weeks.

When to see a vet

Use the feeding chart and BCS as your guide between check-ups, but see your vet if:

• Your dog is losing weight steadily despite eating normal portions.
• Your dog is gaining weight even after you have reduced food and treats.
• There is a sudden change in appetite — refusing meals or becoming ravenous overnight.
• You notice vomiting, diarrhoea, or lethargy alongside weight changes.
• You are switching to a prescription or therapeutic diet and need portion guidance.

A vet can rule out medical causes, calculate a more precise calorie target using your dog's resting energy requirement (RER), and recommend a tailored feeding plan. For an idea of what vet visits cost, see Vet Costs NZ.

Related reading

• How Much to Feed a Puppy NZ
• Dog Food Guide NZ
• Best Wet Dog Food NZ
• Raw Feeding Dogs NZ

References

• WSAVA Global Nutrition Committee: Global Nutrition Guidelines, checked 2026-07-12. https://wsava.org/global-guidelines/global-nutrition-guidelines/
• WSAVA: Body Condition Score — Dog, checked 2026-07-12. https://wsava.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Body-Condition-Score-Dog.pdf
• MSD Veterinary Manual: Nutritional Requirements of Small Animals (energy, RER/MER, individual variation), checked 2026-07-12. https://www.msdvetmanual.com/management-and-nutrition/nutrition-small-animals/nutritional-requirements-of-small-animals

Important notice

*General feeding guidance for NZ dog owners. Portion needs vary by individual, food and health status — this is not a substitute for veterinary nutritional advice. For weight problems or a prescription diet, see a registered NZ vet.*